Ippudo Umeda

Ippudo started in Hakata in 1985, when Shigemi Kawahara opened a counter aimed at people who found ramen shops intimidating: clean, well lit, music playing, women welcome. That sounds unremarkable now and it was not then. The chain went on to open in New York in 2008 and is one of the reasons tonkotsu ramen is known outside Japan at all.

Two bowls carry the menu. Shiromaru is the classic Hakata tonkotsu: creamy pork bone broth, thin straight noodles, a slice of belly pork. Akamaru is the same base with a spoonful of miso paste and garlic oil stirred in, which is richer and the one most people prefer on a first visit. Order noodle firmness when asked; barikata is very firm, futsu is normal, and Hakata natives take the former.

On the table sit free bean sprouts in sesame oil and a jar of spicy pickled mustard greens, and both are meant to be eaten with the ramen rather than saved. Kaedama, a second helping of noodles for a couple of hundred yen, is ordered while there is still broth left.

The Umeda branch is one of many in Osaka, and the honest note is about the location rather than the food: Umeda station is one of the most confusing transport complexes in Japan, several railway companies at different levels with no single map, and finding the shop can take longer than eating in it. Check the exit number before you set off.

Around 1,000 to 1,300 yen. Queues at peak, less so mid-afternoon.