Seimei Shrine

The first torii on Horikawa-dori carries a gold five-pointed star where most shrines hang their name. The star, called Seimei kikyo, is a charm from onmyodo, the court craft of astronomy, calendars and divination that Abe no Seimei shaped. He served six emperors and died in 1005 at 85; two years later Emperor Ichijo had this shrine built where his house had stood. The grounds once filled several blocks but shrank after the Onin War, and only won back their Horikawa-dori frontage in 1950. Seimei's fame in novels, manga and films keeps the small grounds busy, and school trip groups are a common sight. Just inside is a replica of Ichijo Modoribashi, made with posts from the old bridge, guarded by a statue of a shikigami, the spirit servant Seimei is said to have kept under the real bridge, which still crosses the Horikawa 100 metres south. The Seimei well faces the year's lucky direction and is turned each year on Risshun, the first day of spring. Stroke the bronze peach to rub off bad luck. The main hall dates from 1905, the sacred camphor tree is about 300 years old, and kikyo bellflowers bloom from mid-June into early autumn. Pets are not allowed, and neither are drones.