Onomichi

Onomichi climbs the hillside above its harbor on the Seto Inland Sea, a picturesque town that has inspired Japanese writers and filmmakers for decades with its nostalgic atmosphere. Narrow stone paths wind between 25 Buddhist temples clinging to the slopes, creating a walking route that reveals hidden gardens, weathered wooden structures, and sudden views across the water to the islands beyond. The town serves as the starting point for the Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer cycling route that crosses six islands to reach Shikoku, drawing cyclists from around the world. But Onomichi rewards those who linger rather than pedaling straight through. Local culinary traditions add to the appeal. Onomichi ramen, topped with a distinctive layer of pork back fat, has developed a devoted following. And then there are the cats, seemingly everywhere in town, lounging on temple steps and peering from alleyways, beloved residents that have become part of Onomichi's character.