Michi-no-Eki Hakushu

Hakushu is water country. Snowmelt from Mt. Kai-Komagatake filters down through granite into the valley, which is why distilleries and bottlers set up here. At this roadside station on Route 20, the old Koshu Kaido between Kofu and Suwa, the water comes out of a stone spout near the entrance and anyone can fill a bottle, free, 24 hours a day. Expect a line of locals with jugs at busy times.

Inside, the Kamoshika canteen cooks with local vegetables and serves Yamanashi standards such as hoto, thick noodles stewed in miso. The cafe corner does a soft serve topped Shingen-mochi style and another made with Hakushu salt. The shop sells rice, buckwheat flour, vegetables, fruit and pickles from around Hakushu, and the car park gives a clear view of the Southern Alps.

Nagasaka IC on the Chuo Expressway is about 15 minutes away. The shops open at 9:00 and the canteen keeps shorter hours than the shop, while parking and toilets stay open all night. The station closes on Wednesdays in winter, so check the current schedule if you are passing then.