Manpuku-ji

Walk through the gates at Manpuku-ji and the details stop looking Japanese: round windows, peaches carved into the doors, arched ceilings meant to look like a dragon's belly, and a path of diamond-shaped stones that only the abbot may step on. Ingen Ryuki, abbot of a temple of the same name in Fujian, sailed to Japan in 1654 at 63 with about 20 disciples, and in 1661 he founded this one on land granted by the shogunate. The halls face west on a single axis, mirror each other on both sides and are joined by covered corridors, so the monks never step out into the rain. The main Daiohoden is built of teak, and it, the Tennoden gate hall and the Hatto are National Treasures. In the Tennoden sits Hotei, carved in 1663 and treated here as Maitreya. Outside the refectory hangs the kaipan, a big wooden fish struck to mark the hours, and sutras are still chanted in an old Chinese reading. Ingen is also credited with bringing ingen beans and fucha ryori, Chinese-style vegetarian dishes shared four to a table. That meal needs booking three days ahead and is lunch only. Allow 30 to 60 minutes for the grounds. Byodo-in is one stop south.