Tsurugidake

Mountain
Prefecture
Toyama
Type
Mountain
N/A
0 reviews

About This Destination

A 2,999-meter granite peak in the Northern Alps, reached from Murodo on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and climbed by its standard route over 13 sections of chains. It is for experienced climbers only: most people spend a night at a hut below the peak before the summit day. Not to be confused with Mount Tsurugi in Tokushima.

Count the chains before you go: the standard Bessan ridge route has 13 chain sections, numbered 1 to 9 on the way up and 10 to 13 on the way down, because the ascent and descent lines split near the top. Number 9, the Kani-no-Tatebai, is a rock wall climbed on chains and iron pegs. Number 10, the Kani-no-Yokobai, is a ledge traverse where the first step down is hard to see. Getting to the start is the easy part. The Tateyama cable car climbs from Tateyama Station to Bijodaira in about 7 minutes, and a highland bus covers the remaining 23 km to Murodo, at 2,450 meters, in about 50. From Murodo most climbers cross Tsurugi-gozen and sleep at Kenzanso or Tsurugisawa Hut, then make the summit push the next morning and walk out on day three. In 1907 a survey party reached the 2,999-meter top and found an iron sword and a staff later dated to around the 8th century, left by an earlier mountain ascetic. Bring a helmet and gloves. Rockfall from people above and slips on loose stone around Maetsurugi cause many of the accidents, and on summer weekends the chains back up.

Location

Prefecture: Toyama

Address: Tateyama, Toyama, Japan

Nearest Station: Tateyama Station (Toyama Chiho Railway)

Best time to visit: Midsummer to early autumn, while the huts below the peak are open (roughly early July to early October). From December 1 to May 15 it is winter mountaineering territory and a climbing notice is required by law.

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Visitor Information

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Official Website

Access

Toyama, Japan

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is Tsurugidake suitable for beginners?

No. The standard Bessan ridge route is rated for advanced hikers, with 13 chain sections, exposed rock and rockfall risk. Climb only with solid experience on chained routes, a helmet and gloves, or go with a licensed guide.

How many days do I need?

Plan on two nights from Murodo: walk to Kenzanso or Tsurugisawa Hut on day one, climb the summit and come back down on day two, and return to Murodo on day three. Huts require reservations and close for the season in early October.

Can I climb Tsurugidake in winter or spring?

Only as a winter mountaineering expedition. Under Toyama Prefecture's climbing ordinance, anyone entering the Tsurugidake area between December 1 and May 15 must submit a climbing notice at least 20 days in advance.

Is this the same mountain as Mount Tsurugi in Shikoku?

No. Tsurugidake (剱岳) stands in the Northern Alps of Toyama at 2,999 meters. Mount Tsurugi (剣山) in Tokushima is a different, much gentler mountain with a chairlift partway up.

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