Tamatsukuri Onsen

Tamatsukuri is one of Japan's oldest hot-spring resorts, with bathing here recorded as far back as the Nara-period Izumo no Kuni Fudoki of 733 AD. For more than 1,300 years its alkaline sulphate waters have been celebrated as a 'bijin no yu' or beauty bath, said to leave skin soft and smooth — gentle enough that some inns offer it as drinking water and visitors fill small bottles to take the 'beauty water' home. The onsen town stretches along the willow-lined Tamayu River, crossed by stone bridges and dotted with free public footbaths, making it a lovely place simply to stroll in a yukata between soaks. At its heart is Tamatsukuri-yu Shrine, home to a famous wish-granting 'negai-ishi' stone where visitors pray for love and beauty. The area has an even deeper history as the ancient production centre of magatama, the comma-shaped sacred beads carved from local agate and jade that appear throughout Japanese mythology, and several shops still offer magatama-crafting experiences. Day-trip bathing is available, but Tamatsukuri is at its best as an overnight base for exploring nearby Matsue and the great shrine of Izumo Taisha.