Dorogawa Onsen

Onsen Hikyo

Prefecture

Nara

Type

Onsen · Hikyo

N/A

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About This Destination

A street of old wooden inns at about 820 meters in the Omine mountains, built to lodge pilgrims heading up Sanjo-ga-take, a peak that still bars women. There is no train: the last leg is a bus of about 70 minutes from Kintetsu Shimoichiguchi Station, with only a handful of departures a day.

Dorogawa grew up as the gateway town for Sanjo-ga-take (1,719 m), the main peak of the Omine range and the training ground of Shugendo mountain ascetics. Local legend says the first inns were run by descendants of a demon who served En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo. Today about 20 wooden ryokan line the main street, and shops sell darani-suke, a bitter herbal stomach remedy tied to the same legends. The spring itself is recent and modest: a weak alkaline simple spring at 26°C. The Dorogawa Onsen Center, the village day bath, has indoor and outdoor baths and opens 11:00 to 20:00, closed Wednesdays. A short walk away, Menfudo Cave is a 280 m limestone cave at 878 m with an average 8°C inside; a small monorail climbs to the entrance. The Dorogawa springs, including Gorogoro water, were chosen as one of Japan's 100 best waters in 1985. Bring bottles. Be aware of the women's ban: Sanjo-ga-take is still closed to women for religious reasons, and the boundary gate stands at Seijo Ohashi bridge above town. The town, cave and springs are open to everyone.

Location

Prefecture: Nara

Address: Tenkawa, Nara, Japan

Nearest Station: Shimoichiguchi Station (Kintetsu Yoshino Line), then bus to Dorogawa Onsen

Best time to visit: May to November; the pilgrim season on Sanjo-ga-take runs May 3 to September 23, autumn leaves peak from late October, and in winter the approach roads can close or need chains

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Visitor Information

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Official Website

Frequently Asked Questions

Can women visit Dorogawa Onsen?

Yes. The town, the baths, Menfudo Cave and the springs are open to everyone. The ban applies to Sanjo-ga-take itself, which is still closed to women for religious reasons; the boundary gate is at Seijo Ohashi bridge above town. Nearby Inamuragatake, known as the women's Omine, has no such rule.

How long does the bus from Shimoichiguchi take?

About 70 minutes on Nara Kotsu's Dorogawa line. There are only about six buses a day each way, so check the current timetable and the time of the last bus back before you set out.

Can I take Gorogoro water home?

Yes. At the Gorogoro water site past the town, drivers pay 500 yen for a parking space with its own tap and fill as many containers as they like. There is also a free tap at the front for people on foot.