Tsushima

Tsushima is about 82 km from north to south, and that length decides how a trip goes. From Izuhara, the port town in the south, to the Korea Observatory at the northern tip takes roughly two hours by car, and buses are few, so rent a car at the airport or the port. Korea is 49.5 km away across the strait. From the observatory at Waniura you can see Busan on clear days, though the tourism association puts the odds at about one day in six, better in autumn and winter. In the middle of the island, Aso Bay breaks into a maze of drowned inlets. Climb the 145 steps from the car park to the Eboshidake lookout, 176 m up, for the view over it, then drive down to Watatsumi Shrine, where torii stand in the water and the spring high tides reach toward the main hall. Kaneda Castle on Mount Joyama (276 m) is a stone-walled fort built in 667, four years after Japan's defeat at the Battle of Hakusukinoe, and a national Special Historic Site; the climb from the trailhead takes about 40 minutes. The Tsushima leopard cat, estimated at 70 to 100 animals, lives only here. You are unlikely to see one, but drive slowly at night.