Nushima
About This Destination
Location
Prefecture: Hyogo
Address: Hyogo, Japan
Nearest Station: Doshima Port (ferry from)
Visitor Information
Credit Cards: Unknown
Food Options: A handful of small family-run inns and restaurants near Nushima Port serve fresh local seafood, with hamo (pike conger) the standout summer dish — eaten as shabu-shabu, sushi, or grilled. Call ahead in shoulder seasons; some places close mid-week or for the off-season.
Access
Hyogo, Japan
Get DirectionsFrequently Asked Questions
How do I actually get to Nushima?
First, reach Doshima Port (土生港) on Awaji Island's southern coast — about 90 minutes by car from Kobe over the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, or 2.5–3 hours by highway bus from Kobe Sannomiya via Sumoto Bus Center. From Doshima, the Nushima Kisen ferry crosses to Nushima Port in 10 minutes for about 460 yen one-way (about 920 yen round trip). Ferries run roughly hourly during the day, with the last return typically in the early evening — check the latest timetable before going, as off-season runs are reduced.
Why is Nushima called the 'birthplace of Japan'?
In the Kojiki (712 CE) and Nihon Shoki (720 CE) creation myth, the deities Izanagi and Izanami stir the ocean with the heavenly jeweled spear, Ame-no-Nuboko, and the brine that drips from the spear's tip congeals into Onogoro-jima — the first land of Japan, from which all other islands are then created. Several sites around the country claim to be Onogoro-jima, but Nushima has the most physically literal candidate: Kamitate-gami-iwa, a 30-meter sea stack that looks strikingly like a spear thrust point-up out of the sea. Locally, the identification has been treated as canon for centuries; Onogoro Shrine on the island marks the place the gods are said to have descended.
What is there to actually see on the island, and what's the walking route like?
Main sights are clustered around the village — Hamori Hachiman Shrine just above the port and Onogoro Shrine on the hill — plus Kamitate-gami-iwa, the spear-shaped sea stack on the southeast coast, which is the visual highlight and usually viewed from the cliff path above. The full island-loop walking trail takes roughly 2–3 hours and is walkable, but be aware: it's a bit rough in places, runs mostly through forest, and offers almost no views — it's a pleasant nature walk, not a coastal-scenery one. Even at the lighthouse on the southern point you can't actually see the sea, and the lighthouse itself isn't open to climb. Side trails reach Heso-ishi ("navel rock") and Onibashira ("demon's chopping board"). Note that there are wild boar traps set along sections of the trail — keep a close eye on small children, and stay on the path. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water (no vending machines past the village), and reconsider the full loop in midsummer — the forest is humid and shadeless sections get hot. Many visitors get plenty out of just walking to Kamitate-gami-iwa and back.
What and when should I eat on Nushima?
Hamo (pike conger), in summer — Nushima is one of Japan's premier hamo fishing grounds, and the small inns near the port serve hamo-zukushi sets (shabu-shabu, sushi, tempura, grilled) from roughly late June through August at 4,000–8,000 yen per person. Outside hamo season, fresh tai (sea bream) and other local fish from the morning catch are the draw. Most restaurants on the island are small family operations with limited covers and irregular hours; reserve by phone the day before, especially on weekends. The boat schedule constrains lunch — aim for the late-morning ferry over and a mid-afternoon return.
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