Isonokami Shrine

Shrine
Last updated Reviewed by the Japan Voyage editorial team
Prefecture
Nara
Type
Shrine
N/A
0 reviews
Free
Entry Fee
Free Entry Train Access

About This Destination

One of Japan's oldest Shinto shrines, mentioned in the nation's earliest chronicles, said to house the legendary sword Futsu-no-Mitama while roosters roam freely in the sacred grounds.

One of the two shrines named as jingu in the Nihon Shoki, which puts it among the oldest in the country, and for centuries it functioned as the armoury of the Yamato court. Weapons were not stored here for convenience; they were deposited as sacred objects, and the deity of the shrine is in a sense the spirit residing in a blade.

The most famous of them is the Nanatsusaya no Tachi, the seven-branched sword: an iron blade with three prongs projecting from each side, inscribed in gold, made in the fourth century and sent from the Korean kingdom of Baekje. It is a National Treasure, one of the earliest datable objects in Japanese history, and it is almost never on display.

For most of its history the shrine had no main hall at all. The deity was held to reside in a mound behind the worship hall, which was forbidden ground. In 1874 the head priest excavated it, found the buried sword and beads, and a honden was built in 1913 to house them. The worship hall in front is older than the building behind it, dating from 1081 and moved here from a palace, and it is a National Treasure.

Around thirty chickens live loose on the grounds, treated as messengers of the deity and completely unbothered by visitors. They roost in the trees at night, which is not something most people expect from a chicken.

Entry is free. The shrine is the northern end of the Yamanobe-no-michi, the oldest road in Japan, which runs sixteen kilometres south along the base of the hills to Omiwa Shrine past burial mounds and farms. That walk is the best day out in Nara prefecture.

Location

Prefecture: Nara

Address: Tenri, Nara, Japan

Nearest Station: Tenri Station

Best time to visit: Year-round; autumn colour is pretty and the shrine is a fine starting point for walking the historic Yamanobe-no-michi trail in spring or autumn

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Visitor Information

Credit Cards: Unknown

Food Options: No dining facilities at the shrine. Restaurants and shops can be found in Tenri city center near the station, about a 30-minute walk away. The Yamanobe-no-Michi ancient trail passes through the shrine and nearby farmstands sell fresh local produce and mikan citrus.

Official Website

Access

Nara, Japan

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Isonokami Shrine?

From Kintetsu Nara, take the JR Manyo-mahoroba (Sakurai) Line south or transfer via Yamato-Saidaiji to Tenri Station, about 25 minutes (¥330). From Tenri Station it's a 25 to 30 minute walk east, or a 10-minute taxi (¥1,000). Buses are infrequent, so most visitors walk along the Yamanobe-no-Michi ancient trail through orchards and small farms, itself half the experience.

What's the entry fee and what should I see?

Entry is free; open during daylight (gates closed at sunset). Highlights: the Haiden (worship hall, National Treasure, 1081 AD), considered the oldest existing shrine worship hall in Japan; the Romon gate; and the dozens of sacred chickens roaming freely, descended from the original gohai-kei flocks brought as messengers of the gods. The treasure museum opens occasionally for the seven-branched sword Nanatsusaya-no-Tachi (4th century, gift from Baekje); call ahead. Allow 45-60 minutes.

What's the deal with the chickens?

Roosters and hens are sacred messengers (shinshi) at Isonokami, a tradition dating back centuries. Around 30 birds, both white long-tail and dark brown breeds, roam the precinct, crossing paths casually with worshippers. They're protected, and feeding or chasing them is forbidden. Listen for their crowing in the cedar forest at dawn; locals say it announces sunrise to the gods. Don't be surprised if one sleeps on the worship hall steps.

Can I combine Isonokami with the Yamanobe-no-Michi trail?

Yes, the shrine sits directly on the Yamanobe-no-Michi, often called Japan's oldest road, mentioned in the 8th-century Kojiki. The most popular section runs Tenri to Sakurai (16 km, 5-6 hours) past Isonokami, Tenri-kyo, Hibara Shrine, and Omiwa Shrine. A shorter walk just from Tenri Station to Isonokami and back (90 minutes round trip) gives a taste. Spring strawberries and autumn persimmons are sold at unmanned roadside stands along the way.

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