# Yakushima

> A UNESCO World Heritage island with ancient cedar forests, said to have inspired Princess Mononoke.

- Prefecture: Kagoshima
- Type: Attraction
- Address: Yakushima, Kagoshima, Japan
- Official site: https://www.town.yakushima.kagoshima.jp/en/

A round island off the southern tip of Kyushu with a mountain range in the middle. Miyanoura-dake reaches 1,936 metres, the highest point in Kyushu, and the height is what makes the island what it is: warm wet air off the Pacific hits the peaks and drops between four and ten metres of rain a year. Locals say it rains 35 days a month. Plan for rain and you will not be disappointed.

All that water grows cedars. The ones over a thousand years old are called yakusugi, and because the granite soil is poor they grow slowly, dense and full of resin, which is why they last. Jomon Sugi, the largest, is estimated at somewhere between 2,000 and 7,000 years old. Reaching it means a 22-kilometre round trip on foot, the first eight along an abandoned logging railway, starting before dawn and taking about ten hours. It is not technical but it is long, and private cars are banned on the access road for most of the year, so you take the shuttle bus.

For a fraction of that effort, Shiratani Unsuikyo is a ravine of moss-covered granite and twisted roots with marked trails from one to five hours. Ghibli staff came here while working on Princess Mononoke and the resemblance is obvious. Deer and macaques, both endemic subspecies, are used to people and generally ignore you.

Jetfoil from Kagoshima takes about 50 minutes, the ferry about four hours for the slow one. Bring proper waterproofs rather than an umbrella; the trails are wet even between downpours.

## FAQ

### How do I get to Yakushima from mainland Japan?

Two main routes from Kagoshima City: (a) Jetfoil 'Toppy/Rocket' from Kagoshima Port to Miyanoura or Anbo port, 1h50m, ~¥9,500 one-way (~¥17,000 round trip), 5 to 7 departures daily, frequent cancellations in rough weather; (b) Slower car ferry, 4 hours, ~¥6,500, once daily. By air: 30-min Japan Air Commuter (JAC) prop flight from Kagoshima Airport, ~¥12,000 to 17,000 one-way, faster but cancels in poor weather more often. Tokyo travellers usually fly to Kagoshima (Haneda or Narita) first. The island also has direct JAL flights from Itami (Osaka) in season.

### Is the Jomon Sugi hike realistic for an average visitor?

It's a serious 22 km, 10 to 11 hour round-trip hike along the abandoned Anbo Forest Railway tracks (mostly flat) then steep wooden boardwalks up to the tree itself. You need to leave by 5 AM (last bus to the Arakawa trailhead leaves Anbo at 4:30 AM) to make the last bus back at 18:00, bullet ascents only, no overnight permitted on the trail. Reasonable fitness required: people who comfortably walk 6 to 8 hours on a regular day usually finish; couch potatoes struggle. Trekking boots, rain gear (always rains), 2L water and lunch are essential. Rangers staff bus stops and check gear. Alternative for less fit visitors: the Shiratani Unsuikyo 4-hour loop sees similar moss forest at much lower commitment.

### When is the best time to visit Yakushima, and how do I deal with the rain?

There is no dry season. Yakushima receives 4,000 to 10,000 mm of rain per year and locals say it 'rains 35 days a month'. May to June is rainy season with constant rain (still hike-able with gear). July to August is hottest, sticky, with afternoon thunderstorms; trails get crowded. September to October is statistically the best balance of weather, fewer crowds, autumn colours on the upper mountain. November to February: cold and snowy on the peaks (Jomon Sugi trail can close due to snow). Bring a serious rain jacket and trousers, waterproof pack cover, quick-dry layers, never cotton. Expect to hike in rain at least one day of any visit.

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Source: Yakushima — Japan Voyage