# To-ji

> A World Heritage Site founded in 796, home to Japan's tallest wooden pagoda at 55 meters and a beloved monthly flea market on the 21st.

- Prefecture: Kyoto
- Type: Temple
- Address: Kyoto, Japan
- Admission: 500 yen
- Official site: https://toji.or.jp/

Two temples were built to guard the entrance to the new capital in 796. The western one is gone. To-ji, the eastern one, is still here, and in 823 the emperor handed it to Kukai, who had just returned from China with the esoteric teachings that became Shingon Buddhism. He turned it into the school's headquarters and rebuilt it as a teaching machine.

The pagoda is the thing you see from the train. At 54.8 metres it is the tallest wooden tower in Japan. The current one dates from 1644, paid for by the shogun Iemitsu, and it is the fifth on the site; the previous four burned, all but one struck by lightning. The interior opens only on special occasions.

The building to prioritise is the Kodo, the lecture hall. Inside stands a three-dimensional mandala: twenty-one statues arranged in a precise geometry that Kukai laid out in 839, so that walking around them takes you through the structure of the cosmos as Shingon describes it. Fifteen are ninth-century originals and National Treasures. It is dim, crowded with figures, and unlike anything else in Kyoto. The Kondo next door holds a large Yakushi trinity from 1603.

On the 21st of every month the grounds fill with the Kobo-ichi market, over a thousand stalls of antiques, tools, kimono, plants and food. It marks Kukai's death day and has run for centuries.

Entry to the grounds is free; the halls cost 500 yen and more during the spring and autumn special openings. Fifteen minutes on foot from Kyoto Station.

## FAQ

### How do I get to To-ji?

To-ji is a 15-minute walk southwest of Kyoto Station via the Hachijo-dori exit, or a single stop on the Kintetsu Kyoto Line to Toji Station (3 minutes, 160 yen) followed by a 5-minute walk. By city bus, several routes (#42, #71, #207) stop at 'Toji-Higashimon-mae' near the east gate.

### What's the entry fee structure?

The temple grounds are free to walk through. The Kondo and Kodo halls (with the 21-statue 3D mandala including National Treasures) cost 500 yen for adults. Entering the five-story pagoda's first floor is offered only during seasonal special openings (around 800 yen extra). The Kanchi-in sub-temple's garden and treasure house cost 500 yen. Cash and cards accepted. Open daily 5:00 AM (gardens) / 8:00 AM (paid halls) to 5:00 PM.

### What is the Kobo-ichi flea market like?

Held on the 21st of every month from around dawn (5 to 6 AM) to 4 PM, Kobo-ichi is one of Kyoto's largest open-air markets, with 1,000+ vendors filling the temple's vast precincts. You'll find Japanese antiques, second-hand kimonos, ceramics, pickles, mochi, soba, vintage tools, plants, and street food. December's 'Shimai-Kobo' (the year's last) and January's 'Hatsu-Kobo' (first of the year) are especially festive. Walk-only, with no parking. Cash strongly preferred.

### When is the best time to visit To-ji?

Late March to early April for the famous weeping cherry tree (Fuji-zakura) in front of the pagoda, illuminated at night during cherry season. Mid-November for autumn foliage when the maples around Hyotan Pond reflect the pagoda. The 21st of any month for the Kobo-ichi market. Mornings before 10 are quietest. Avoid the 21st if you only want to see the temple itself, since the market makes it crowded.

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Source: To-ji — Japan Voyage