# Shima Onsen

> A narrow hot spring valley along the Shima River in northwest Gunma with 42 sources, named in 1954 as one of Japan's first three national health spa resorts. Sekizenkan's 1691 main building is often linked with Spirited Away, and the lake upstream, Okushima-ko, turns a bright "Shima blue" in spring.

- Prefecture: Gunma
- Type: Onsen
- Address: Nakanojo, Gunma, Japan
- Official site: https://shimaonsen.com/

The name is usually read as "forty thousand", and the local story says the water cures forty thousand ills. Shima Onsen strings its inns along a narrow valley of the Shima River inside Joshinetsu Kogen National Park, with 42 sources of sodium-calcium chloride-sulfate water, counted among Japan's three classic springs for stomach complaints. Fukuzawa Yukichi, Yosano Akiko and Dazai Osamu all came here. In 1954 Shima was one of the first three spas named a national health resort, alongside Sukayu in Aomori and Nikko Yumoto. Many visitors head for Sekizenkan, whose main building dates from 1691 and is called the oldest surviving wooden inn building in Japan. It is often said to have inspired the bathhouse in Spirited Away, though that has never been confirmed. Day visitors can use its Genroku-no-yu, a 1930 bath hall with arched windows, a tiled floor and five stone tubs, from 10:00 to 17:30 for 1,500 yen. At the top of the valley the Hinatami Yakushido, built in 1598, is a national Important Cultural Property. Upstream, the dam lake Okushima-ko, about 4 km around, is at its bluest from April to May when snowmelt flows in, best on a sunny morning. Getting here takes time: the bus from Nakanojo Station is about 40 minutes.

## FAQ

### Can I bathe at Sekizenkan without staying the night?

Yes. Day bathing in the Genroku-no-yu runs from 10:00 to 17:30 (last entry 17:00) for 1,500 yen, including a face towel and toothbrush; a bath towel costs 550 yen. No booking is needed, but numbers may be limited when it is busy.

### Is Sekizenkan the inn from Spirited Away?

It is often said to be one of the models for the bathhouse, but this has never been confirmed, and the inn's own site does not claim it. Many visitors come simply to photograph the 1691 main building.

### When is Lake Okushima at its bluest?

From April to May, when snowmelt flows into the lake, and on sunny mornings. The road around the lake is one-way and about 4 km long.

### How do I get to Shima Onsen from Tokyo?

Take the limited express Kusatsu-Shima from Ueno to Nakanojo (about 2 hours 5 minutes), then the Kan-etsu Kotsu bus (about 40 minutes). The Shima Onsen-go expressway bus from Tokyo Station takes about 3 hours 30 minutes.

---
Source: Shima Onsen — Japan Voyage